Now is an opportune time to do this, as the infixSalt conversion in
`add-flags.sh` ensures that all the relevant `NIX_*` vars will be
defined even if empty.
This is basically a sed job, in preparation of the next commit. The
rules are more or less:
- s"NIX_(.._WRAPPER_)?([a-zA-Z0-9@]*)"NIX_\1@infixSalt@_\2"g
- except for non-cc-wrapper-specific vars like `NIX_DEBUG`